It’s alive! Or at least it certainly looks that way when a Monstera deliciosa spreads those giant, Swiss-cheese leaves across your living room. These tropical beauties are fast growers, and before you know it, that charming tabletop plant you brought home has turned into a jungle resident looking for more legroom—and something to climb.
Monsteras don’t need constant repotting, but every two to three years (or when roots start circling the pot or poking through the drainage holes) it’s time to upgrade. Choose a pot that’s only one or two inches larger in diameter than the current one. Too big, and the soil will stay soggy; too small, and your Monstera will keep stretching its leafy arms with no room to anchor.
Early fall (right about now) is a sweet spot for repotting Monsteras. They’re still actively growing, so they’ll recover from root disturbance quickly. Once winter slows their metabolism, transplant stress can linger, so if you’ve been eyeing a bigger pot (and adding that pole), don’t wait until January.
Repotting is also the perfect time to add a climbing pole. In their natural rainforest habitat, Monsteras cling to tree trunks with aerial roots, so giving them something to climb indoors makes them happier and your floorspace tidier. Moss poles, coco coir poles, cedar stakes, and even trellises are all options. Moss and coir poles are the most naturalistic, encouraging aerial roots to attach if misted lightly. Wooden or cedar stakes are sturdier but won’t hold moisture, so aerial roots may need tying. Decorative trellises and ladders can work well for smaller plants or if you want a horizontal spread.
When picking or building your moss pole (or using a piece of lumber or 2×4), aim for a height at least as tall as the Monstera plus the pot, with a few extra inches for growth. When repotting, place the pole toward the back of the pot, by the aerial roots and the spine of the monstera towards the back of the plant, so the plant can fan forward, pressing soil firmly around the base so the pole won’t wobble. Using zip ties, string, or velcro plant tape (my personal pick), loosely connect the shoots using your fastener so it has room to grow but it is firmly supported to the pole. Buyer beware: while misting a moss pole helps roots attach, letting it stay soggy can invite fungus gnats. Keep it damp, not drenched.
When repotting, use a chunky, well-draining mix (something that mimics their natural rainforest roots) A blend of potting soil, orchid bark, and perlite will do the trick. Gently loosen the root ball, trim any mushy roots, and set it at the same depth in its new home.
When choosing a new home, remember that Monsteras like depth and stability. A pot with extra depth allows those thick roots to anchor firmly, and a wider base helps prevent tipping as the plant climbs skyward. Terracotta is a favorite because it breathes, helping excess moisture evaporate, but it does dry out faster. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots hold moisture longer, which can be helpful in dry homes but risky for heavy waterers. The key: whatever material you choose, make sure there’s a drainage hole. Monsteras will forgive a lot, but “wet feet” is not one of them.
Smaller, lower leaves often yellow and die off naturally, especially on mature plants. But yellowing can also signal problems. Before repotting, it may mean roots are compacted, overwatered, or short on nutrients. After repotting, a few yellow leaves are often just “transplant shock” as the plant settles in. If yellowing continues, check your soil: it should be airy and well-draining, not compacted and soggy. Make sure the plant has enough bright, indirect light to fuel new growth, and prune those small, energy-draining lower leaves to let the big ones thrive.
Even with a bigger pot and a sturdy pole, Monsteras can outgrow their space. That’s where propagation comes in as a haircut for your houseplant. Taking proper cuttings keeps your plant manageable while giving you (or your friends) new starts.
Cuttings must include a node (that knobby joint where roots or leaves sprout), or they won’t grow. My personal recommendation is that readers watch a good demonstration video before trying it the first time, since technique matters with both propagation and repotting.
When I recently repotted my Monstera, I attached a new moss pole and propagated two clippings. Before placing them in water, I let them dry for 48 hours, and then sprayed the cuttings with a copper-sulfur mixture (found in the gardening section) to kill any potential for fungus, waiting about 30 minutes before transferring them into water in a propagation vase, or even a five-gallon bucket for larger ones. Roots usually appear within two to three months, but patience is the secret: let cuttings root for at least four months so they develop a system strong enough to support those iconic large leaves. Doing this at the start of fall allows you to propagate over winter and enter spring with a Monstera ready to unfurl adult-sized foliage. During this period, ensure there is adequate water covering the node, adding extra as needed, and changing it completely every seven days or sooner as it gets cloudy.
Giving your Monstera a bigger pot, a pole to climb, and an occasional haircut doesn’t just tame the sprawl; it produces bigger, fenestrated leaves, the kind that make you feel like you live in a tropical resort. Plus, an upright plant takes up less floor space, meaning you can justify adopting just one more leafy companion.
After all, fall is the best time to do the Monstera Mash. Here’s to hoping this article helps remind readers to repot in a flash.
